Fruit Trees Only Tree Care

WHAT IS THE BEST TIME TO PLANT FRUIT TREES?

The best time to plant fruit trees depends on several factors such as the specific type of fruit tree, local climate variations within the zone, and individual preferences. By planting fruit trees at the right time and providing proper care, you can give them the best chance of healthy growth and fruit production.

BEST TIME OF YEAR FOR USDA GROW ZONE 9A

• Container-Grown Trees: If you're planting container-grown fruit trees, you have more flexibility as they can be planted throughout the year, except during extreme weather conditions. Ensure the tree is well-watered and acclimated to its new environment before planting.
• Late Winter to Early Spring: Planting during late winter (February-March) or early spring (March-April) allows the tree to establish its root system before the onset of hot summer weather.
• After the Last Frost Date: Wait until after the last frost date in your area to avoid potential frost damage to young trees.
• Mild Weather Conditions: Aim to plant fruit trees during a period of mild weather conditions with moderate temperatures and adequate soil moisture. Avoid planting during extreme heatwaves or prolonged periods of heavy rainfall.
• Fall Planting (for Certain Trees): Some fruit trees, such as citrus trees, can also be planted in the fall (September-November) in Zone 9a. Fall planting allows the tree to establish roots before winter dormancy sets in.
• Consider Microclimates: Be aware of microclimates within Zone 9a. Coastal areas may have milder temperatures compared to inland regions, so adjust your planting schedule accordingly.
• Soil Preparation: Prepare the planting site in advance by amending the soil with organic matter, ensuring good drainage, and removing any weeds or debris.

IN GROUND OUTDOOR PLANTING INSTRUCTIONS FOR FRUIT TREES

Choose the Right Location: Ensure the location receives at least 6-8 hours of sunlight daily. Consider the mature size of the tree and provide adequate space for roots and canopy.
Check Soil: Well-draining soil is essential. Please consider using one of our automated testers for monitoring your soil pH levels and water levels for overall plant health. Amend the soil with compost or potting soil if needed.
Watering: Water the tree thoroughly before and after planting.

SPACING FOR PLANTING FRUIT TREES
The spacing for planting fruit trees varies based on the type of tree and the desired growth. Here are general guidelines:
Standard-sized fruit trees: Plant 12-15 feet apart.
Semi-dwarf trees: Plant 8-12 feet apart.
Dwarf trees: Plant 6-10 feet apart.
Ensure adequate space for air circulation, sunlight, and root growth, promoting healthier fruit trees.

PLANTING STEPS
Dig the Hole: Follow the dimensions provided below based on the size of your container.
Prepare the Root Ball: Gently remove the tree from its container, loosening the roots if they are tightly bound.
Place the Tree: Position the tree in the hole, ensuring that where the roots meet the trunk (graft point) is level with or slightly above the ground.
Backfill the Hole: Refill the hole with the excavated soil and potting soil, gently tamping it down to eliminate air pockets.
Apply the FTO Fertilizer: Add a batch of the Fruit Trees Only Fertilizer for all fruit trees and plants.
Water: Water deeply to settle the soil around the roots.
Mulch: Apply mulch around the base, keeping it a few inches away from the trunk.

HOW BIG OF A HOLE SHOULD YOU DIG?

3 Gallon Container: Hole Diameter: 12-15 inches - Hole Depth: 12-15 inches
5-Gallon Container: Hole Diameter: 15-18 inches - Hole Depth: 15-18 inches
7 Gallon Container: Hole Diameter: 18-20 inches - Hole Depth: 18-20 inches
10-Gallon Container: Hole Diameter: 20-24 inches - Hole Depth: 20-24 inches
15 Gallon Container: Hole Diameter: 24-30 inches - Hole Depth: 24-30 inches
30-Gallon Container: Hole Diameter: 30-36 inches - Hole Depth: 30-36 inches

COLD WEATHER CARE
IN CASE OF FROST OR FREEZE WARNINGS

• Plants can be covered with winter frost blanket, moving blankets (wool recommended), or wool blankets.
• Soil can be banked up to bottom limbs prior to winter in December and removed March 1st.
• Plants in containers should be brought indoors.

PLANTS AFFECTED BY A FREEZE

• Some leaf drop can be expected. This should be removed from the container or the soil mound.
• Never prune trees until new growth starts back in late spring (April)
• At that time all cuts should be made at least 1/2" below damaged wood.

WATERING YOUR NEW PLANTS
Watering Instructions for Newly Planted Fruit Trees Proper watering is crucial for newly planted fruit trees to establish strong roots. The following guidelines are based on 5-gallon, 10-gallon, and 30-gallon plants. These instructions assume planting in grow zone 9 with well-draining soil. Adjust based on rainfall and soil conditions. General Watering Tips: • Water slowly and deeply to encourage deep root growth. • Use a watering ring or slow-release method to prevent runoff. • Avoid overhead watering to prevent fungal issues. • Mulch around the base (2-4 inches deep) but keep mulch 3-4 inches away from the trunk to prevent rot. Watering Schedule by Container Size 5-Gallon Fruit Trees • First 2 Weeks: Water every day for the first 10–14 days, ensuring the root ball is fully soaked. • Weeks 3-8: Water every 2–3 days (adjust if there’s heavy rainfall). • After 2 Months: Transition to once per week, providing a deep soak. 10-Gallon Fruit Trees • First 2 Weeks: Water every day or every other day, depending on soil drainage. • Weeks 3-8: Water every 2–3 days, ensuring water reaches the full root zone. • After 2 Months: Water once per week deeply. 30-Gallon Fruit Trees • First 2 Weeks: Water every day, ensuring the entire root ball is saturated. • Weeks 3-8: Water every 2–3 days, using a slow soak method for deep penetration. • After 2 Months: Reduce watering to once per week but deeply soak the soil. Additional Considerations • Hot Weather (90°F+): Increase watering frequency slightly, especially for smaller containers. • Cooler Months: Reduce watering frequency if the soil retains moisture longer. • Clay Soil: Water less often but deeply. • Sandy Soil: Water more frequently with smaller amounts to prevent excessive drainage. • Rainfall Adjustment: Skip watering if there’s sufficient rainfall (1+ inches per week). Following this watering regimen will help your newly planted fruit trees establish a strong root system and adapt to their new environment efficiently.
WATERING YOUR NEW PLANTS WITH RECLAIMED WATER

Reclaimed water can be used to water fruit trees which produce a fruit with thick skin.  Fruits with things like citrus which requiring peeling are an example.  Water should not come in contact with the edible portion of the fruit directly. There are some precautions to care for when using reclaimed water to water fruit trees.


• Avoid spraying or splashing  water directly on fruit.
• Ensure fruit tree produces fruit with thick, peel able skin.
• Don't eat any edible portion of fruit that has been in contact with reclaimed water on the plant or soil.
• Wash all fruit with clean water and peel it before eating or cooking.
• Don't use reclaimed water to irrigate plants that will be eaten raw or eaten with the skin such as peaches, pears, plums, apples, berries, etc.

CITRUS PLANT TREE CARE

FOR PLANTING IN GROUND
Pick a spot with adequate sunlight on well drained soil or soil mix.
Avoid septic tanks, power, irrigation, water and drain lines.
Clear away any weeds and grass prior to installation.
Ensure that you have water available at the installation site. (Irrigation or hose for watering.)
Dig hole larger than the container based on recommendations above.
*Important: Remove the tree from container and shave away fiber roots from the sides of root ball.
*Important: Place tree in hole, keep top of root ball same level as the existing ground level, no deeper.
Fill 1/2 full with water, then fill with remaining soil to ground level, pack soil to remove air pockets.

FOR CONTAINERIZED GROWING Plan to step up to a larger container for your new fruit tree every 6 months to a year, depending on the citrus variety.
*Important: Before stepping into a larger container, shave away fiber roots from the sides of root ball.
Do not water daily. It is recommended you water every other day.
The Soil must aerate in the container.
Do not cover root ball any deeper than it was in the original container.

FERTILIZING
YOUNG CITRUS TREES - 5 gallon and smaller
Young citrus trees (up to 5 gallon) need a constant feed. Use the Fruit Trees Only base fertilizer as it contains the minor elements required for bloom and fruit production. Follow instructions in the fertilizer recipe for the application amount and apply once monthly in the months of March, May, August and early October.

OLDER MATURE TREES - 10 gallon and larger
Fertilize 3 times per year using the Fruit Trees Only Fertilizer. Spread evenly from trunk to edge of canopy.

CITRUS THERAPY
For all citrus trees, we recommend using our Fruit Trees Only Citrus Therapy for all citrus plants 3 times a year in the months of March, June and early October.

FLOWERING AND FRUITING CITRUS TREES
Citrus trees flower and produce fruit in response to environmental stress.
• Temperature change from winter to spring is the main occurrence.
• Drought conditions.
• A bloom booster product can be used the first of spring to encourage flowers.
However, if a late frost damages spring blooms, few if any, may be produced.
• Potted or containerized citrus will also benefit from exposure to the cooler outside temperatures (but not freezing). Bring inside before winter.
HOW TO MANAGE PESTS ON OR AROUND YOUR FRUIT TREES
CITRUS PESTS & DISORDERS
*Pink ISD Tag - All Fruit Trees Only nursery citrus tree stock have a treatment tag attached to the plant and are required to be treated with a systemic drench prior to being sold. The ISD tag shows the treatment date and the retreat by date (6 months after initial date). To continue this treatment effectiveness, the homeowner should retreat before the expiration date on the ISD tag. The primary reason is to prevent the Asian citrus psyllid from spreading citrus greening (HLB). The treatment also kills any insect that leeds on the leaves (aphids, white flies, leaf minors).

The active ingredient in the systemic drench is Imidacloprid. There are several brand name treatments you can use at home.
Fruit Trees Only is an Amazon Affiliate and we recommend the following products for your plant health needs:

• Fertilome Systemic Drench - Follow the directions on the package.
• Captain Jack's Neem Oil - Most insect pests that eat on plants can be controlled with Neem Oil spray. Follow the directions on the package.
• Fungicide spray - use for citrus scab which is caused by a fungus. Follow the directions on the package. Use drip irrigation, not spray so as not to spread the fungus.

FRUIT TREE PESTS & DISORDERS
Identify the Pest: Look for signs of pests such as holes in leaves, curled or discolored foliage, webbing, or visible insects.

Common Pests and Remediation:
Aphids: Small, soft-bodied insects often found in clusters on new growth.
Natural Predators: Encourage ladybugs, lacewings, and other beneficial insects that prey on aphids.
Spray: Use Captain Jack's Neem Oil or Fertilome Systemic Drench, applying directly to affected areas.

Fruit Flies: Small flies attracted to ripe or fermenting fruit.
Sanitation: Remove fallen or overripe fruit promptly.
Traps: Use fruit fly traps with attractants to reduce populations.

Caterpillars: Larvae of moths or butterflies that chew on leaves and fruit.
Handpicking: Remove caterpillars by hand.
Bt Spray: Use Captain Jack's BT Spray, a natural bacterial insecticide.

Disease Prevention:
Pruning: Remove dead or diseased branches to improve air circulation. Consider buying our favorite Pruning Tool Set on Amazon!
Sanitation: Remove fallen leaves and fruit to prevent disease spread.
Fungicides: Use fungicidal sprays as preventive measures against fungal diseases like powdery mildew or leaf spot.

Organic Remediation:
Beneficial Insects: Introduce beneficial insects such as predatory mites or parasitic wasps to control pests naturally.
Neem Oil: Use Captain Jack's Neem Oil, a botanical pesticide, to deter and kill a wide range of pests while being safe for beneficial insects.
Monitor: Regularly inspect trees for pest activity.
Cultural Practices: Maintain tree health through proper watering, fertilization, and pruning.

HOW TO IMPROVE DRAINAGE FOR YOUR SOIL/SAND BASED LAND
Improving drainage for fruit trees in sandy soil is crucial to prevent waterlogging and promote healthy root development.

Raised Beds or Mounds: Create raised beds or mounds for planting fruit trees. This elevates the root zone above the naturally occurring sandy soil, improving drainage. Ensure the raised area is wide enough to accommodate the tree's root system.

Amending Soil: Incorporate organic matter such as compost, well-rotted manure, or peat moss into the sandy soil. Organic matter improves soil structure, increases water retention, and promotes microbial activity, enhancing drainage while providing nutrients to the tree.

Use of Mulch: Apply a layer of organic mulch (e.g., wood chips, straw, shredded leaves) around the base of the fruit tree. Mulch helps retain soil moisture, reduces erosion, and regulates soil temperature, improving overall soil health and drainage.

Install Drainage Pipes or Gravel Beds: For areas prone to waterlogging, consider installing drainage pipes or creating gravel beds beneath the planting area. This allows excess water to drain away from the root zone, preventing water accumulation.

Planting Slope: Plant fruit trees on a slight slope if possible, directing water away from the tree's root zone. This helps prevent water stagnation around the roots.

Monitor Irrigation: Adjust irrigation practices to account for the fast-draining nature of sandy soil. Water deeply but less frequently to encourage deep root growth and prevent surface runoff.

Avoid Compaction: Minimize soil compaction around the tree's root zone, as compacted soil hinders water infiltration and root growth. Use mulch to protect the soil and avoid walking or heavy machinery in the planting area.